Creating costumes for Great Expectations – the inside story

Milla Hills

When Southwick Players take on a production as ambitious as Great Expectations, it’s not just the cast and directors who rise to the challenge. The behind-the-scenes team puts in just as much creativity and graft. And in wardrobe, the look of the show relies on period detail, clever sourcing, and more than a few ingenious workarounds.

We caught up with Milla Hills, the Players’ long-standing wardrobe coordinator, to find out what it takes to bring Dickensian drama to life.

Photos: Lynsey Nicol

Can you tell us a bit about your background and how you got involved with Southwick Players?

I’ve always loved making fancy dress costumes and had done a bit of dressmaking for myself. I joined Southwick Players in 2013 as an actor in Animal Farm – I was the pigeon – and also helped with some of the props and costumes. Later I worked on Jerusalem and Oh What A Lovely War. In 2014 I was asked to do the costumes for the next panto, Dick Whittington, and with no idea how much work that involved, I said yes. After that, nothing could daunt me!

What was your reaction when you found out the next production was Great Expectations? It’s a huge one for costumes!

I was very excited – it’s exactly the sort of play I love costuming, and Richard [Lindfield] is a lovely director to work with. My first thought was, “Miss Havisham’s wedding dress – great!”

Where do you even begin with a project like this, especially with only a tiny costume budget?

We’ve done several Victorian-era plays since I joined, so we have a fair bit in stock, and I know the styles pretty well. Luckily, my favourite Victorian outfit fitted Amy (Estella) – a dark red shot silk skirt and jacket I made for The Elephant Man a few years ago. I made a new matching bodice for her to wear with the skirt in the ball scene.

How much of the costume collection came from the Players’ wardrobe, and how much did you have to source elsewhere?

Most of it came from stock, or are things I’ve made or altered. The soldiers’ uniforms were hired from Harvey’s, and we picked up a few bits from Glad Rags.

Any particularly creative or unusual solutions you came up with to get the look you wanted?

Miss Havisham’s dress needed to look like it had been worn continuously for over 20 years, so there was a lot of distressing involved. It’s made from silk and satin over a muslin base – torn, frayed, and dirtied with everything from tea to spray paint. I also adapted some satin shoes: one is worn and filthy for her to wear, and there’s a matching, clean but dusty one for the dressing table.

How do you balance historical accuracy with practicality and availability?

I did quite a bit of research, from late 18th-century wedding dresses to mid-Victorian gentlemen and blacksmiths. It’s aspirational really – getting the overall look right, even if not every detail is period-perfect.

Costuming such a large cast must be a logistical challenge. What’s been the hardest part of this production?

That’s what I’m used to – there’s always lots to find. This time it was the number of men in the cast that made it tricky: suits, waistcoats, shirts, shoes – and all in the right sizes. Last-minute cast changes made things harder, but we got it sorted.

It sounds like there’s a strong community spirit behind the show. Can you tell us more about that?

I was very glad of help from Daisy Haste, who had just joined Southwick Players and was keen to get involved. She made the prisoners’ uniforms, helped source and mend items, and even kept notes for me – I’ve got a terrible memory! The cast also chipped in, bringing in some of their own things. A dress donated by a Players member ended up being perfect for Mrs Joe, which was a lovely bonus.

Do you have a favourite costume or character look from Great Expectations?

I think Estella’s transformation through the play – from young girl to proud beauty to sad matron – is very moving. It’s reflected so well in her costumes.

Finally, what would you say to someone thinking of getting involved in theatre wardrobe or backstage work?

It’s a great group of people. We generally all get along and help each other, even if there are the occasional artistic temperaments(!) The challenges can be huge, but when it all comes together, it’s incredibly satisfying.

Interested in joining the production team? Drop us an email at  info@southwickplayers.org.uk

Photos by Lynsey Nicol Photography – www.lynseynicolphotography.co.uk